How Much Should You Borrow Based on What You Want to Pay Monthly

So you hear a lot about relative cost to rent versus cost to buy, but really, you're thinking... What can I afford?  Or, more likely, how much can I borrow but still pay the same amount in mortgage as in rent?  Today I want to show you a quick and dirty way to figure that out.

First, take your monthly amount of rent. Let's say $3000 for a round number.

Then, you need to subtract something to represent the maintenance (for a coop), or common charges + property taxes (for a condo) that you might be paying. This amount varies a great deal based on the size of the property that you are looking at. Common amounts are $500-$800 for a one bedroom or $800 - $1000 for a two bedroom, and go up from there. 

Let's say we're looking at a one-bedroom and want to be conservative, so we'll take $800 as the number. $3000-$800=$2200.  Notice we didn't include insurance. This is because homeowners policies are not a very big jump from renters insurance policies, so we'll assume that cost remains the same. (If you don't have a renter's insurance policy, you should seriously consider getting one up - your belongings are not covered by the landlord's insurance policy if they are stolen or destroyed).

So we have a principal and interest payment of $2200. Now, we look at the current interest rates. Your bank's website can provide those to you. Keep in mind two things: 1) interest rates change daily and 2) when the economy is good, interest rates tend to move up.  So if you are doing this exercise for a future purchase six months from now, you might want to add .25%-.5% just to be safe. (of course you can always buy the interest rate back down if you have the cash and the desire).

At the moment I am writing this, I just clicked over to the Bankrate.com website. Bankrate is an independent web site that publishes information about mortgage rates across many banks and regions of the US. Keep in mind that New York rates may be different from the national average. Coop loan rates are usually higher, as are condo loans, though somewhat less so.  Indeed, Bankrate gives me a range of 3.97%-4.89%, while the national average is listed as 4.29%.

Let's again be conservative and use 4.75% as our rate. Now, we flip over to http://www.realestate-calc.com/Mortgage_Calculators/Mortgage_Amortization.asp, where we find a nicely laid out table of the cost per $1000 borrowed. Scroll down to 4.75 in the first column, then slide your finger over to the 30-year column (all the way to the right). The number is $5.22. That means for every $1000 you borrow at 4.75% interest rate, your monthly payment is $5.22 for a 30 year self-amortizing loan (meaning when you hit the last payment of the 30 year loan, you have paid off the loan).

Ok, so now we take your monthly rent payment less allowance for monthly maintenance fees (remember that? $3000-$800=$2200), and we divide $2200 by $5.22. So in other words, we are seeing how many thousands of dollars we can service with the $2200 we already pay.  The answer? 421.456. Just multiply that by $1000 (or  move the decimal over 3 places) and you'll get $421,456, which is the amount of mortgage you can carry, plus maintenance charges and (if condo) property taxes.  

Now let's take that one step further. You generally need a 20% down payment to get a mortgage. Most coops require that at least 20% be put down. Condos might only require 10% (some coops do as well, but banks have become more stringent since 2008 and it's harder to get a 90% mortgage on a coop than it once was).

The amount of mortgage that we figured, $421,456, represents 80% of the total cost of the property that you can purchase. This is the maximum loan to value ratio (or LTV) that most loans allow. Dividing that number by four tells us what 20% of the total price must be. Answer: $105,364.

To get 100% of potential purchase price, we multiply that number by five. (because 5 x 20% = 100%). So $105,364 x 5 = $526,820.

So, the total purchase price that you can likely afford while still keeping  a similar housing payment to what you pay in rent is $526,820. This assumes a down payment of $105,364 (the 20% number we calculated earlier).

In the hottest parts of Manhattan, this will get you a studio or a small one bedroom. In northern Manhattan, this will get you even a two bedroom. Even in Brooklyn, you can score a very nicely sized one bedroom or even two bedroom depending on area (though probably not in Williamsburg, alas).  So if you feel you can't afford to buy, think again. You can afford to buy if you can afford to rent at Manhattan's prices.

What's a Non-Conforming Coop?

You're searching the Internet for your new home to buy.  You find a property - a coop unit - that looks really, really good. You read through the description and you are loving the way it sounds. The photos look great too. Then you see at the bottom of the listing "Non-conforming building - cash offers only (or preferred)." Huh. What does that mean?

You Google the term "nonconforming building". The returns define it to be a building that doesn't conform to existing zoning laws. But in New York City, it's more likely to mean that the building's financials and/or owner occupancy do not conform to guidelines set by Fannie Mae (FNMA) and her compatriot, Freddie Mac (FHLMC), the two entities that purchase loans on the secondary market from the banks that originate them.

So you Google "nonconforming loans".  This search just gives you a lot of information about jumbo loans, which are a type of nonconforming loan, because the amount of the loan is higher than Fannie Mae conforming limits.

But this property is asking less than the published conforming loan limits. Are there other issues that can put a property into nonconforming territory?

Answer: yes there are. One of the big ones is owner occupancy. This refers to the number of units in the coop that have been sold by the sponsor to individual owners and are occupied by those owners and their families. Units that are owned by individuals but sublet to renters do not count, but individually-owned vacant units do. Sponsor-owned units also are not considered owner-occupied (a sponsor unit is one that continues to be owned by the original landlord of the building who created the coop, or their successor).

FNMA/FHLMC requires 51% of cooperative units to be "owner occupied". Not 50%, but 51%. This was a big issue back in the 1980s and 1990s when sponsors owned more than 50% of units in many coops that had just been converted. The sponsor ownership is less of a problem these days, but smaller coops (under 40 units) can still slip into this nonconforming status if they have a significant percentage of sponsor ownership (ie, 25-40%) and if the coop allows too many owners to sublet in addition. When that happens, the coop falls into non-conforming status.

In the olden days, it was possible to get something called a "waiver" on nonconforming buildings. This literally meant that the owner occupancy issue could be waived, and a bank could get you a conforming loan. Since 2008, however, that is practically impossible, according to mortgage lenders that I have considered. Whereas waivers were practically a given before the mortgage crisis (for a small fee), now each application for a waiver is scrutinized and takes weeks to process. Few are granted.

So that leaves us back to this beautiful coop in your price range. You don't have cash, but you see it's a bargain. What can be done?

First, realize that while many mortgage programs are not going to be available for that particular unit, some loans might be. These loans are called portfolio loans, and they may be given by banks or mortgage lenders.  A portfolio loan is a loan that a bank cannot sell to FNMA/FHLMC. The bank has limited choices - either the loan must be held and collected by the bank until the end of the term, or the loan can be sold to an investor who will deal in nonconforming loans.

Unfortunately, that translates to a slightly higher interest rate for the borrower.
But such a property may present an opportunity. Remember, every coop is different. Some may be primarily investor-owned, while others may simply be one unit from conforming.  Ask your agent what the situation is.  If the situation is just one unit, then you might have an opportunity to get a little pop in value when that one unit does finally turn the owner occupancy ratio over 51%. You have the option of refinancing into a conforming loan once the building is conforming as well.

So, all in all, don't leave those gems in the dust. Nonconforming coops can present an opportunity to the person looking for a below market opportunity for a long term primary residence.

2012 May Be the Year of the Starter Apartment

So the headlines of the last nearly 2 years have been how luxury homes (over $5 million) just don't seem to be slowing down... until they kind of have. I mean, at the very top end people will always have the money to buy. But now, according to a couple articles, family sized apartment sales have been slowing down.

Instead, it looks like the little guy is finally feeling a little more confident, and smaller starter homes are starting to finally move on the market.  It may not be all about the want to invest however, as Manhattan rents are starting to fly skyhigh again. All you renters, that means you don't have 48-72 hours to "think over" apartments. February, a traditionally slow month, saw very high rental activity.

When you're out shopping for apartments, you need your previous year's tax returns and/or W-2s, letter from your employer showing salary and tenure, 2-3 consecutive paycheck stubs, and bank statements showing enough reserves to pay all the move in costs (please don't send a checking account statement showing only $50; you are trying to prove you are financially qualified to pay rent monthly!). You may also need a copy of your ID, a reference or previous lease from your current landlord. Forewarned is forearmed: I would have quite a fortune if I were given a commission for every renter who missed out on an apartment they loved because they didn't take my advice and have all their paperwork close to hand.

THAT's 700 Square Feet!?!

Found this post on the other day that highlighted a great issue: measuring square footage of a property and whether, or how, to report it.

With prices above $1000 per square foot in many parts of Manhattan, we care about every inch! As mentioned in this blog post, square footage is measured in several ways. In new development condos, for instance, the square footage is measured by the floor plate. That means some of the square footage in the apartment is between the drywall and the studs, unfortunately.

In prewar apartments, square footage is often (but not always) measured from interior wall to interior wall. Why the difference?  Because floorplans for the prewar buildings are often not available. As a result, new layouts are drawn using interior wall measurements only.  So next time you see a 650 square foot prewar and a 650 square foot recent development listing, and one feels a lot bigger, you know why.

The actual issue discussed in this blog post is whether to list the square footage of a property in the marketing materials. The author tells a story of a very particular buyer who tried to back out when the actual square footage differed from the listed amount by less than 1%.  That's a pretty extreme example to me, but it happens.

A colleague of mine doesn't list square footage because she finds that people have different opinions of the same number. Instead, she asks them to tell her how much they think the space is. Predictably, answers vary all over the map.

The truth is that layout greatly affects the perception of square feet. In my opinion, potential buyers will tell you how much usable square footage they see. Does the unit have a long hallway from the entrance to the foyer? Wasted Space. Square bathroom or narrow rectangular bath? The wide square shape may be perceived as larger. Galley kitchen or open kitchen with breakfast bar? That's a toss-up. Some will count the separate kitchen as more space, while others will perceive the narrow kitchen as smaller than it really is.

I've gotten pretty good at figuring out - within 50 square feet or so, how big an apartment is. Sometimes I work forwards. For instance, if a prewar apartment has a 12' x 22' living room and a 12' x 15' bedroom, then total square footage is likely between 750 (if a galley kitchen) and 850 (if eat-in kitchen).  Other times, I work backwards. For instance, if an apartment is a full floor of a townhouse, then you take the size of the town house (ie, 20' wide by 40' long, a typical size in the West Village) and subtract 50-100 square feet for the interior staircase. A longer house makes for a bigger apartment with an interior dining room and/or a second bedroom.

One thing I do not recommend is using a "rule of thumb" or "legendary" square footage. I once knew a seller who represented that his apartment was a certain square footage because "the coop assigns one share per square foot". Unfortunately, the buyer's appraiser found that the real number was nearly 300 square feet less. The buyer cared very much about the square footage and wanted a huge price drop. Turns out he cared about the price per square foot, even though the property appraised for the contract price. He didn't want it unless he was getting a deal, even though he'd been through the apartment several times and felt it met his needs. Ultimately, the sale died.  Moral of story: do take a measuring stick and measure the apartment yourself, even if you "know" what the rough number is.

As a broker (and a person with a decent - though hardly perfect - spatial perception), I appreciate an approximate square footage in the listing information. It helps me understand whether I should even bring a customer to a specific listing, or if it would be too small. I use floorplans and photos to help me make that decision (and the more information a listing has, the more likely I am to shortlist it for a customer).

Bottom line: Measure the property, even if you have documents stating a particular square footage. Always use the word approximate. Provide more visual information to complement the square footage information (floorplans, photos, etc.). It could save your sale.